Sacto food dude ducks out
Originally published in SacAlt Magazine October 2013
By Lovelle Harris
There are plenty of quacks in this world, but none are as tasty as the succulent meat drawn from the waterfowl. Leading us on this delectable journey of the feathered variety is Hank Shaw, the James Beard award-winning author whose latest foray into the world of hunting and gathering, Duck, Duck, Goose, is nothing short of an odyssey into the wild marshes of duck country. Appealing to both home cooks and culinary wizards, Shaw’s easy to follow cookbook isn’t only a guide to preparing some of the most luscious duck and goose dishes that draw from French, German, Korean, Chinese, English and American inspiration, but a tutorial on the bird itself: from a break down of domestic and wild varieties, suppling the goods on the best preparation for each, to a vivid and beautifully illustrated purview of the techniques involved in identifying, butchering and preparing each. Shaw’s in-depth knowledge of the bird, from bill to tail-feather, covers just about everything. From carving methods to preparing some of the most basic recipes, like how to achieve that perfectly crispy seared duck breast, to the most intricate, like the centuries-old Peking duck, Shaw struts his culinary stuff. His take on waterfowl is simple, honest and stays true to his commitment to utilizing every part of the bird, yes, there’s even a section devoted entirely to the offal parts. So, sharpen your knives, grab an apron and prepare to dive into the world of the quack.